Hektoen International

A Journal of Medical Humanities

Eating pigs, cows, and horses

Illustration, 1869, Ward, Lock, & Tyler of London, via Wikimedia.

The history of food is also the history of civilization. At some point, every society had to discover which animals it could tame, breed, and domesticate. Pigs, cows, and horses were the best candidates, not only for the meat they would provide but also for their value in agriculture, transportation, making clothes, or warfare. As a result, different attitudes developed in different parts of the world. In the United States and much of Europe, pork and beef sit comfortably on dinner plates and are sold in every grocery store. Horse meat, by contrast, provokes disgust in some countries, whereas in others it is normal, even prized, food.

Pigs were domesticated over 9,000 years ago in the Near East and China. Unlike grazing animals, they adapted well to living near human settlements, where they could consume scraps, roots, fruits, and agricultural waste. Reproducing rapidly and maturing quickly, they became an efficient source of meat for farming communities. Throughout the Roman Empire, medieval Europe, and much of East Asia, pork was among the most common meats available to ordinary people.

Cattle followed a different historical path. Domesticated roughly 10,000 years ago from wild ancestors called aurochs, cows and oxen became indispensable to early agriculture. Long before they were slaughtered for beef, they pulled plows, hauled carts, produced milk, and supplied manure for fertilizing crops. In many ancient societies, they represented wealth itself. A person’s prosperity could literally be measured by how many cattle they owned.

In Europe and the Middle East, beef gradually became an important source of food. During the Middle Ages, however, it was often a luxury compared with pork, since maintaining cattle required more pastureland. The expansion of ranching in the Americas after European colonization transformed beef production on an enormous scale. Vast grazing lands in Argentina, Brazil, the United States, and Canada allowed cattle raising to flourish, making beef a defining feature of many New World cuisines.

The history of horses differs more dramatically. They were domesticated on the Eurasian steppes over 5,500 years ago, and their impact on civilization cannot be overstated. Once humans learned to ride horses and harness them to wheeled vehicles, transportation, communication, agriculture, and warfare were transformed. Chariots reshaped Bronze Age warfare, as mounted cavalry dominated battlefields for nearly three thousand years, and horse-powered trade connected distant regions across Europe and Asia.

Because horses were so valuable alive, many societies rarely slaughtered them for food except during times of hardship. Medieval chronicles frequently mention horse meat being eaten during famines or military sieges. During Napoleon’s disastrous retreat from Russia in 1812, starving soldiers survived in part by eating their horses. Similar accounts appear throughout history whenever armies became isolated or supplies failed.

Despite these associations with hardship, horse meat has long been part of the normal diet in some regions. The nomadic people of Central Asia relied heavily on horses for transportation, milk, and meat. Horse meat remains traditional in countries such as Kazakhstan and Mongolia, where the animal has always occupied a central place in daily life. In parts of Europe, including France, Belgium, and Italy, horse meat became more widely accepted during the nineteenth century, when governments encouraged its consumption as an affordable alternative to beef. Dedicated horse butcher shops appeared in many European cities during this period.

By contrast, English-speaking countries developed a different relationship with horses. Britain and the United States increasingly viewed horses as companions, work partners, military mounts, and eventually sporting animals. By the twentieth century, many people considered eating horse meat emotionally unacceptable, despite having no objection to consuming beef or pork. The Industrial Revolution accelerated this shift as horses gradually disappeared from farms and city streets, becoming associated instead with recreation and personal attachment.

According to animal behaviorists, all three species are mammals capable of experiencing pain and distress. Pigs are highly intelligent, arguably more so than dogs, and can learn symbolic language systems, solve puzzles, and display complex social behavior. Cows form long-term social bonds, remember individual humans and animals for years, and show signs of grief when separated from calves or companions. Horses are prized for their intelligence and sensitivity in nearly every culture that keeps them, which is precisely why many people find eating them uniquely troubling.

The differing histories of pigs, cows, and horses demonstrate that food preferences are shaped less by biology than by culture and circumstance. From a purely biological standpoint, pigs, cows, and horses are remarkably similar. The same animal can be viewed as livestock, sacred, a companion, or even a national symbol depending on where and when one lives. Economic necessity, military history, and emotional factors influence what societies choose to eat. Horses were traditionally working animals and companions bound up with warfare, transport, and sport; their partnership with humans as individuals, often named and known, made them and dogs closer companion animals than livestock raised anonymously in herds. Cows, raised specifically for food and labor in large numbers, became categorized from the outset as edible.

Religious tradition adds another layer. In Hinduism, the cow is considered sacred, associated with the goddess Kamadhenu and non-violence. In Islam and Judaism, pork is forbidden as unclean under dietary laws involving ritual purity, health, and symbolic boundaries between communities.

Psychologists who study food behavior in humans point out that disgust is one of the most powerful and least rational forces shaping what we consider edible. Once a culture designates an animal as a pet, a working partner, or a sacred being, eating it becomes distasteful and often viscerally repulsive. This is why the idea of eating a horse can nauseate an American who eats a hamburger without a second thought. The disgust response is learned, not innate, and it tends to entrench itself as an unquestioned moral intuition.

None of this settles the underlying ethical question of whether eating pigs, cows, or horses is right or wrong. But it does suggest that most people’s positions are acquired rather than reasoned through, absorbed from culture and religion. There are a few consistent positions available: one could argue, as many vegans and animal rights advocates do, that none of these animals should be eaten, or as many omnivores do, that all of them are fair game, provided they are raised and slaughtered humanely. What is harder to defend, on purely ethical and scientific grounds, is the common middle position: comfortable with bacon and steak, uneasy about horse meat.

Recognizing this inconsistency does not require everyone to become vegetarian or to start ordering horse steak. But it is worth being aware that dietary taboos, however deeply felt, are not necessarily moral truths. They are habits of culture. Whatever one ultimately decides to eat, that decision is more honest when made with an awareness of from where our food taboos come.


GEORGE DUNEA, MD, Editor-in-Chief

Summer 2026

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